I’ve got burger brain, bad.

I know, it’s not very “Seasoned Traveller” of me. Usually I’m chasing underappreciated cuisines and lesser-known national dishes, but hear me out: everything was lesser known at some point. When burgers gained popularity in Australia after WWII, Aussies couldn’t get enough of them. Nearly a century later, I can’t help but wonder why we are still so bloody excited – so much so, that an independent operator can open a burger window, go viral, flip almost 1000 patties a day, and win a global award – in just two months. More on that below.

In the name of Eating Curiously, what could be more curious than people queuing for a burger in 2025? Burgers might be the ultimate cultural barometer, reflecting global alliances and biases, the state of the economy, and the sway of social media. Even if you don’t fall down a research rabbit hole like me, I bet you have a burger memory.

Mine is begging mum to buy me yet another Happy Meal after swimming lessons, swearing that this time, I will totallydefinitelyactually eat the thing, instead of just pocketing the plastic toy (sorry mum, sucked in). For my dad, who would have turned 67 this Sunday, it was rattling off the Big Mac ingredients in under a few seconds – “Two all-beef patties, special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions on a sesame seed bun” – to win a freebee back in the ‘70s.

I wanted to know more, so this week I chatted to the biggest names in burgers and wrote a complete history of the burger and what’s next. That led me to a brilliant story about Melbourne’s only purveyor of viral UFO burgers (spoiler alert: it’s an Indian vegetarian food truck). And that, in turn, got me thinking about condiments – a perfect segue to sharing a recipe from Rosheen Kaul’s new cookbook, Secret Sauce. Would you like fries with that?

P.S. I’m off to eat my way around South Australia next week, so stay tuned for tips in my next newsletter. Recommendations also welcome!

When I learned that a new burger window in Brunswick East was flipping almost 1000 burgers a day, I was intrigued. It felt like more than a trend to me, because the fact is, Australia has been obsessed with burgers for nearly 100 years. What you see on TikTok isn’t actually that different to what people ate during 19th century American fairs — and even in Ancient Rome. But how did burgers get here? And where are they going? I asked some of the biggest names in the biz for their take. This one is for the die-hard food nerds, like me.

I’m not usually moved by viral trends, but the practicality of eating a burger without any of the insides spilling out, combined with all that flavour marinating inside a sealed bun — well, I had to try it. Who would have thought that the only place in Melbourne currently offering UFO burgers would be an Indian vegetarian food truck? Better yet, the owner had no idea sealed burgers were an online phenomenon when he put them on the menu.

I’ve been a big fan of Melbourne chef Rosheen Kaul, who cemented her reputation by packing illegal amounts of flavour into dishes during her stint as head chef at Etta restaurant (Brunswick East). Secret Sauce is her second cookbook, this time with more than 50 recipes for killer condiments and accompanying dishes to make the most of them. Think chilli sauces, sambals, dressings, butters and flavour bombs – all of which can elevate the simplest meals. You can try before you buy with this recipe for her take on sauce gribiche, because who doesn’t love a condiment you can chew?

For the Gribiche
Makes 1 cup (250ml)

1 green chilli
½ cup (125 ml) mayonnaise
1 tablespoon French shallot, minced
1 hard-boiled egg, finely chopped
½ cup (80 g) whole cornichons, neatly chopped
1 tablespoon parsley, finely chopped
½ teaspoon Dijon or Japanese mustard
1 anchovy, finely chopped
½ teaspoon sake
½ teaspoon lemon juice

Char the green chilli over an open flame or in a cast-iron pan until blackened. Chop finely, removing the seeds if you wish, then transfer to a bowl and add the remaining ingredients. Stir to combine, and add some more seasoning if you wish. This sauce will keep for up to a week in an airtight container in the fridge.

For the Salmon
Serves 2

1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon pitted green olives, sliced
1 tablespoon mint leaves, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon chilli powder
Salt, to taste
1 tablespoon neutral oil
2 salmon fillets, skin on
2 tablespoons charred green chilli gribiche (see above)

Combine the onion, olives, mint, lemon juice, chilli powder and salt in a small bowl. Set aside to marinate while you cook the salmon.

Heat the oil in a cast-iron or non-stick skillet over medium heat. Pat the salmon dry with paper towel then salt the skin. Place skin side down in the hot pan and cook for 6–7 minutes or until the skin is crisp, pressing the salmon down with a spatula to maximise contact with the pan. Carefully flip the fish and cook for a further 3–4 minutes or to your liking.

Transfer to a plate and serve with the gribiche and onion salad.